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ECS REVIEW
PAGE TURNER

-Review by Kajori Aikat
Between Heaven and Hell

-By AKHIL BAKSHI

In 1999, Akhil Bakshi led a team of South Asian activists on a motoring expedition, “Hands AcrossThe Borders”, to promote peace and development in the region. The travelogue, “Between Heaven and Hell”, is the result of this historic journey, which began in Sri Lanka and ended in India, covering a distance of over 18,000km.

“Between Heaven and Hell” is a book that offers a great deal of important information about South Asia. Bakshi explores a wide range of issues from politics and development to society, religion, myth, and culture. All this information is delivered to us in a style that is friendly and conversational, interspersed with lots of humorous anecdotes and some sage advice. The book makes for an enjoyable and absorbing read and will interest anyone who would like to know more about the history, politics, and culture of the extremely diverse region that is South Asia. Much has been written about Sri Lanka, India, Bangladesh, Bhutan, and Nepal in sundry travelogues, but we are rarely given a glimpse of the region as a whole, and the common challenges that face all these nations. Political strife, poverty, hunger, illiteracy, corruption, and gender inequality are just some of the problems that need to be addressed urgently. Bakshi tackles these weighty issues with wit and irony, and with a clarity and passion that is rare in much of what passes as “political” writing. About the typical “small” party (political) worker, he has this to say, “The small party worker in South Asia has a fondness for getting arrested in a political situation…he will move heaven and earth to get a piece of paper from the jail authorities…To command the admiring attention of his leaders, he will come freighted with these certificates around his neck, like badges of distinction, and at election time, use them to strengthen his case for getting the party’s nomination”.

While humor does help present disturbing facts such as these in a more palatable form, there are several occasions when Bakshi’s humor seems a trifle forced and err on the side of impropriety. Sample this, “The stupa (Swayambhunath, Nepal) was topped by a square-shaped monument that had the gazing eyes of the Buddha painted on all four sides. Buddha seemed a bit squinted to me, but they say it is normal when you are in an intense state of meditation”. After a visit to Sri Lanka’s imposing Jetavanarama Dagoba (dagobas are believed to enshrine the holy relics of the Buddha), perhaps the largest in the world, he opines, “All it has is fantastic height, achieved by an unimaginative arrangement of bricks, roughly plastered and white-washed. I propose to write to the leaders of Sri Lanka and India to consider utilising all these bricks for the more productive purpose of building a bridge across the Palk Strait, linking Sri Lanka and South India. The ‘bridge effect’ would result in strengthening economic ties and create, within a few years, one of the fastest growing and richest regions in South Asia”. Issues such as that of ‘Sati’ in India are also dealt with in a similarly light-hearted and off-hand manner. The book, in fact, abounds in “jokes” which, apart from being in questionable taste, are guilty of being insensitive to regional and cultural difference. Such displays of humor are surely inimical to the spirit of goodwill and understanding that Bakshi’s expedition set out to promote and could better have been avoided.

Also, including the experiences of fellow expedition members and allowing their voices to be heard more often would have added interest to Bakshi’s narrative and provided a more inclusive picture of the South Asian “experience”.

556 Pages. Published by Odyssey Books

 

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